Tour & travel section
Ethiopia’s attractions are so numerous and diverse that here we can only provide a rough guide to the possibilities. We will be happy to work with you to tailor make an itinerary to meet your timetable, special needs and interests, and your budget.
In planning your trip to Ethiopia, you might start by considering the following broad categories of tourist activities, bearing in mind that in any one trip, some or all could be combined:
2) Adventure – Trekking, rock climbing, caving and white water rafting
3) Wildlife
4) Bird life
Click on the links to get information about tours in these categories, and roughly how much time you should allow for each tour.
Ethiopia’s wealth of historic sites, and an identity defined by its own history and diverse cultures rather than by colonialism, is what distinguishes it from most other African destinations. The best known historic sites – Axum, Lalibela, Gondar and Bahir Dar – make up the Historic Route. Axum was the seat of an Empire which extended across the Red Sea to Arabia, traded with India and China, had its own alphabet and notational system, constructed great engineering works and dams and was reckoned by the 4th century Persian historian Mani to be one of the four great powers of the ancient world, along with China, Persia and Rome. Today the visitor can see stelae (the largest single pieces of stone erected anywhere in the world), the tombs and castles of kings, Axum Museum and Mariamtsion Church, built on the site of Ethiopia’s first church. A chapel within the church compound is believed by Ethiopian Orthodox Christians to house the Ark of the Covenant, or the tablets of Moses. (For western audiences, this has been popularised in Graham Hancock’s The Sign and the Seal). A visit to Axum can be extended to take in the 800 BC pre-Axumite temple at Yeha, 55 km east of Axum, and a little further, the 7th century monastery at Debre Damo. (Women are not allowed to enter the latter, and the only access is by rope.)
At the end of the 12th and beginning of the 13th centuries King Lalibela of the Zaghwe dynasty built a series of rock hewn churches, the New Jerusalem, now rightly categorised as one of the wonders of the world.
There are 11 churches within the town named after him, and outlying churches (recommended are Ashetun Mariam and the cave church of Yemrehane Christos) that can be visited on a second day. All are still in use today. It is estimated that the churches in Lalibela took 25 years to construct – for the Kingdom based on Roha (later renamed Lalibela) to have kept a large work force engaged in economically unproductive labour for such a long period means that it disposed of a large economic surplus and was very wealthy. The area then was clearly fertile and agriculturally productive, whereas now deforestation and other forms of ecological degradation have reduced its productivity and made it prone to drought.
Gondar was the capital of the Ethiopian Empire from the 17th to mid 19th centuries and is distinguished by its castles and imperial compound and by its churches, particularly Debre Berhan Selassie, the walls and ceiling of which are completely covered in murals. On a second day, visitors could make a day trip to the Simien Mountains National Park or travel south to Gorgora, at the northern end of Lake Tana, and visit the very fine and recently restored medieval church of Debre Sina Mariam.
Bahir Dar is situated on Lake Tana, which is dotted with island monasteries and churches. Many are closed to women, but the churches on the Zeghie Peninsula, with their excellent murals, are open to both sexes. It is possible to cross the lake by boat, from Bahir Dar to Gorgora, or vice versa. South of the Lake is the source of the Nile, which feeds into Lake Tana and exits north of Bahir Dar to create the spectacular Blue Nile Falls, some 30 km downstream. (Although since the opening of the dam in 2003, the Falls are only worth visiting when the dam gates are open – the local authorities are aiming for a daily opening, between 0800-1000.)
The easiest and fastest way to get around is by air, by Ethiopian Airlines’ domestic flights, although that means missing out on some stunning scenery, and other interesting though less well known sites. The Historic Route can be done by road, or by a combination of road and air travel. If it is done by road, others sites and activities can easily be added, such as the markets of Senbete and Bati, where the lowlanders and highlanders meet for trade, the rock hewn churches of Tigray, and some days walking in the Simien Mountains. Ideally, two days in each place should be allowed for Axum, Lalibela, Gondar and Bahir Dar. Two weeks plus should be allowed for doing the Historic Route by road. (There are comfortable lodges in the Simien Mountains National Park, and at Hauzien in Tigray, for people visiting the rock hewn churches of Ghera’alta.)
Whether on the Historic Route or elsewhere, visitors can experience and participate in ancient religious festivals, such as Genna (Christmas), Timket (Epiphany), Fasika (Easter) and Mesqal (the finding of the true cross), and the special feast days of individual churches. There are also pilgrimages, some with more than 100,000 pilgrims participating, the most famous being Hidartsion, in Axum towards the end of November, and Gabriel Kolubi, near Dire Dawa, twice a year at the end of September and in June.
Guide books have promoted the idea that the major festivals are best experienced in centres such as Gondar and Lalibela, whereas smaller towns tend to offer a more authentic experience, with far fewer tourists in attendance.
Other interesting historic sites, on the Historic Route and elsewhere in Ethiopia: the Church of Gishen Mariam in Wollo; Tigray’s rock hewn churches (there are 120 of them, many predating those of Lalibela), churches and monasteries on the road from Addis Ababa to Bahir Dar, such as Mertulle Mariam; Meqdala, the imperial capital of Emperor Tewodros; the neolithic site at Melka Kunture, near Addis Ababa; the stellae fields at Tiya (near Addis Ababa) and around Dilla in the south; cave paintings at Lega Oda near Dire Dawa; Hadar - the site where “Lucy” and other hominid species were discovered in the Afar Region; the recently restored castle of Abba Jiffar, last independent king of Kaffa, in Jimma. The Muslim city of Harer with its 99 mosques, the old walled city and particular architectural style ranks with the main sites on the Historic Route.
2) Adventure: trekking, rock climbing, paragliding and white water rafting
There are many possibilities for trekking in Ethiopia, here are three.
a) The Simien Mountains present perhaps the most dramatic mountain scenery in Africa - great volcanic plugs, formed some 40 million years and eroded over the aeons into fantastic crags, pinnacles and flat topped mountains, “the chess pieces of the Gods” as one writer described them, tower over precipitous gorges, river valleys and plains stretching all the way to Eritrea. There are many peaks over 4000 metres, and Ras Dashen at 4620 metres in the highest in the country and the fourth highest in Africa.
While trekking in the Simiens visitors can see the endemic Gelada or bleeding heart baboon, the Walia Ibex, Simien Wolf and rock hyrax, endemic birds such as the Thick-billed Raven, Black-headed Siskin, White-collared Pigeon, Wattled Ibis, White-billed Starling, Spot-breasted Plover and White-backed Black Tit, cruising Lammergeyer with their 3 metre wingspan and Afro - Alpine meadows carpeted with flowers and punctuated by the tall spiky kniphofia or “red hot pokers”. You can go in for a day, or go the whole hog and climb Ras Dashen - it is not a technical climb and no special climbing ability is needed. Mules can carry you and your luggage for most of the way. If you are interested in climbing Africa’s fourth highest mountain, Ras Dashen (4624 metres), you should allow eight days in and out. The Simien Mountains can easily be combined with a tour on the Historic Route. Visitors with little time can fly from Addis Ababa to Gondar, some 100 km from the entrance to the park at Debark. For those who do not like camping, there is a comfortable lodge near Sankaber, which can be used as a base for exploring the park.
b) Good trekking itineraries, by horse or on foot, can also be made in the Bale Mountains National Park, an area of high altitude plateau, with volcanic crags and lakes, forests, alpine moor land, trout filled streams and a striking variety of fauna and flora. Several endemic mammals, including the Mountain Nyala, Simien Wolf and Menelik’s Bushbuck, are found within the park, while 16 endemic bird species have been recorded. In the Harenna Forest in the southern part of the park there are leopards and lions, although the dense forest makes spotting animals difficult. A one-day excursion from Goba (by car) takes the visitor to the fantastic underwater river and caves of Sof Omar. Since it takes at least one day to get to Bale from Addis Ababa, a minimum of 4 days should be allowed.
c) Down in the south, on the west bank of the Omo River are found the Surma, who like some of their cousins on the eastern bank go in for body painting and (the women) wearing lip plates. This is an opportunity to see unspoiled wilderness, a variety of game, more than 300 bird species and of course the Surma people themselves, their rituals, dance and stick fighting. A minimum of 1 week should be allowed. It takes 3 days by road to where the trek can be started.
Rock climbing is not an indigenous sport, but there are excellent sites in Tigray which have been visited in recent years by rock climbing enthusiasts. In the last few years paragliders have found excellent flying in Ethiopia.
Caving is similarly not practised in Ethiopia, but groups from the University of Bradford in UK have discovered vast cave complexes in Harerghe, in the east of the country.
White water rafting is generally done on the Blue Nile near Bahir Dar (a few days), along the Omo River (the whole stretch can take up to a month) and on the Awash River (one or two days). Specialised expeditions have tackled other rivers, including the Tekezze, the Beshilo and the Baro. Rafting can only be done at certain times of the year, after the rains, and needs to be set up well in advance.
Ethiopia’s troubles over the last few decades, including population displacement and wars, and the burgeoning population increase, have taken their toll of wild life – for big game it is necessary to go to the Omo and Mago parks in the south, or to Gambella, and even here sightings cannot be guaranteed. In Awash Park different plains animals may be seen, including greater and lesser Kudu, Gerenuk and Dikdik. In the Bale National Park various endemic animals can easily be seen, such as Mountain Nyala, Simien Wolf and Menelik’s Bush buck.
In Babile Elephant Sanctuary, some 40 east of Harer, it is possible to see elephants and other game, and up in the north, in Tigray Region, in the new protected area Kafta Sheraro Park, elephants and other wild animals are making a comeback.
4) Ethiopian Quadrants Birdwatching Tours
More than 800 bird species are found in Ethiopia, of which 16 are endemic. A further 14 species are shared with Eritrea, which was part of Ethiopia until 1991. Ethiopia’s diverse habitats, highlands, lowlands, forests, lakes, wetlands and riverine systems provide sites for wintering or passage birds.
Important Bird Areas of Ethiopia, published by the Ethiopian Wildlife and Natural History Society, provides a list of 69 sites, spread throughout the country, with much work in identifying and classifying new sites still to be done.
Most bird watching itineraries are in the south of the country – an itinerary in search of all of Ethiopia’s endemic birds would take in Debre Libanos, north of Addis Ababa, the Jemma River valley, the escarpment north west of Addis Ababa, around Debre Berhan and Ankober and the descent to Melka Jedbu, the Awash National Park, the Rift Valley Lakes, Wondo Genet, Bale and the road south through the Harenna forest to Negele, the area near the border with Somalia near Bogol Manyo, west from there to Yabello, Konso and Fejej and Nech Sar National Park. This would take a minimum of 3 weeks, but shorter tours of about 10 days which would guarantee seeing most of the endemics and several hundred other species could be set up covering Awash National Park, the Rift Valley Lakes and the Bale Mountains. Our website will soon be posting details of a number of both short and long itineraries.
Ethiopian Quadrants can tailor make itineraries to meet clients’ special needs or interests, and mix birdwatching with other itineraries - such as the Historic Route or the Simien Mountains - and can also organise short birding extensions as part of a longer trip, or for people passing through Addis Ababa with a few days to spare. On both long and short trips, you will be accompanied by a trained ornithologist.
On whatever trip you take, in whichever direction, there will be marvellous scenery. To the north on the Historic Route there is dramatic mountain scenery, particularly around the Simien Mountains. South of Addis Ababa there is a string of seven lakes along the floor of the Rift Valley - Lakes Zwai, Langano, Abiata, Shalla, Awassa, Abaya and Chamo – each in some way different from the other. East of Awassa is the Bale Mountains National Park, (see 2b above). A trip to Bale could include the underwater river and cave system of Sof Omar, the longest in the world. South of Awassa the road passes through coffee plantations before reaching the more arid, acacia forested areas of Borana. In the west, on the road from Jimma to Gambella, there are vast stretches of tropical rain forest, while Gambella itself with its Nilotic ethnic groups provides a taste of the vast swamps and savannah of southern Sudan.
70 km south of Addis Ababa the road forks, to the east is the Afar Region and the Awash River valley, Dire Dawa and the walled city of Harer (to the south are the Rift Valley Lakes and Kenya). After Awash town some 230 kms from Addis Ababa, the road forks again, with the north east fork leading to Hadar, Yangudi Rassa Park, Aissayta and the lakes into which the Awash River drains. North of Aissayta there is Lake Afdera, or the Great Salt Lake, Mount Ert’ale, the only volcano in the world with a permanent lava lake, while further north still lies the Danakil Depression and Dalol, the lowest point below sea level on earth. Travellers taking this route to the Depression could ascend the escarpment to Mekele in Tigray.
The eastern fork takes you to the Din Din forest, Dire Dawa, Harer, and for the intrepid traveler, the Somali Region.
Visitors with an interest in observing pre-materialist cultures and in anthropology will find much to fascinate them in the different ethnic groups situated along the Omo River, with marvellous scenery, wild life and bird life as an added bonus. Before reaching the Omo, just before Arba Minch, a visit can be made to Chencha, the home of the Dorze people, famed for their bamboo bee-hive shaped houses and their weaving skills. Further south are the Konso, noted for their intricately terraced hillsides and the wooden totems with which they adorn their cemeteries. Along the Omo River a variety of different ethnic groups are found, such as the Arbore, Bume, Galeb, Karo, Hamer and Mursi, whose contact with the modern world has come only within the last two to three decades. (The Omo, flowing for nearly 1000 km from the highlands south west of Addis Ababa to Lake Turkana in Kenya, provides excellent opportunities for white water rafting.) For a trip to the Omo Valley at least 8 days should be allowed. On the east bank, the construction of lodges has obviated the need for camping, but on the west bank it is still necessary. Ethiopian Quadrants can provide well fitted camps, with cooks, full board, generators, freezers, cold drinks and toilet and shower tents.
In the far west in Gambella, along the Baro river can be found the Anuak, Nuer and Misingir people. Gambella can be reached by air, or by a 2 day road trip.
Nearer Addis Ababa, from the Awash Park eastwards, are the Afar, most of whom are still pastoralists and who can pack up and carry their houses on the backs of camels.
Ethiopia is one of the twelve bio-diversity centres in the world, and visitors with a special interest in nature, such as flowers and plants or butterflies, will find much to interest them. A butterfly tour would take in the Menagesha Forest near Addis Ababa, the Rift Valley Lakes, the Bale Mountains and the Awash Valley. (There are 8 families, 93 genera and 324 species to be found in Ethiopia.) A typical tour would take about 11 days in and out.
With flowers and plants we would take in the Bale Mountains, the Awash Valley and then cut across to ascend the escarpment of the Abyssinian Highlands. About 10 days should be allowed.
Increasingly popular are coffee tours, which Ethiopian Quadrants organises in collaboration with the Oromo Coffee Farmers Cooperative Union, which featured in the award winning documentary, Black Gold. The tour would include meetings and discussions in Addis Ababa, cupping sessions, a visit to a coffee aucti0n, and visits to the cooperatives in the coffee growing areas, such as around Harer, Yirga Chefe, Jimma and Nekemte.
Geologists will find the Awash area particularly interesting, while a trip to Mount Ertale (the only volcano in the world with a permanent lava lake) would be a “must” – it can be accessed by road, with the ascent being made on foot with camels carrying the supplies, or by a helicopter flight from Mekele. A comprehensive tour, also taking in the Simien Mountains, would take about two weeks.Study tours in areas such as education or health could be made anywhere in the country, according to the other interests of the group.
Ethiopia has a number of pilgrimage sites, Christian and Muslim, visited on certain days by thousands (in some places, tens of thousands) of pilgrims. The better known sites include: Mariamtsion Church in Axum, Debre Damo Monastery, Hamad al-Negash (site of the first Muslim settlement in the world), Gabriel Kolubi near Dire Dawa and Sheikh Hussain near Bale.
Planning and costing your itinerary
Ethiopian Quadrants will tailor make your trip for you, and tell you how much it will cost, if you can supply us with the following information, by phone, fax or email:
1) From the categories above, what would you say is your main interest? What other interests do you have?
2) How much time do you have?
3) What are your accommodation requirements: a) best available hotels b) tourist class hotels c) camping.
4) How many are in your group?